PDA

View Full Version : Flash Hider Removal/Installation


AK49
21 March 2011, 12:15
I tried searching this matter but found nothing. I'm sure its here somewhere and I'm 5 minutes away from being relocated. Any help is appreciated.

What is the best route for removing an pinned and welded A2 Flash Hider. I want to install a compensator but I'm not sure if this project is somethimg my novice hand should attempt with some guidance, or if I should raise money and have a more skilled individual carry this out. Also, does this process damage the end of the barrell or is there a high probabilty that it might? I have a semi unique barrell and wish it now harm. I'm not so worried about saving the A2 and I'm certain the flash hider will be junk after removal anyway.

Secondly, once removed, I just need to thread a new one in lieu of the old right?

5pins
21 March 2011, 12:53
The best way would be to send it off to some place like ADCO.

http://www.adcofirearms.com/

The91Bravo
21 March 2011, 12:58
Found this on google. It is an archived item, but the pics are still there and the directions are clear.
http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/index.php/t-185888.html

BEFORE YOU PROCEED:
WILL THIS REMOVAL CAUSE THE BARREL TO BECOME SHORTER THAN 16"?

IF SO YOU WILL BE IN VIOLATION OF THE NATIONAL FIREARMS ACT!!

Unless you posess the NFA tax stamp for THIS weapon, you cannot proceed without being in violation of federal law.

Good Luck

Scotty
21 March 2011, 14:43
Depending on whether it was welded or simply soldered is the factor for how much of a PITA it will be to remove. Best to have a smith do it.

Unless it's just a silver crush washer that LOOKS like a weld. Then it's just a hamer and a twist away. I've seen crush washer spacers that looked like a bead of solder.

Scotty

SSG Surf
21 March 2011, 16:34
Drilling out the pin can be tough as you need to know the depth and not drill too deep through the barrel. ADCO drills out the pins that they install as they know the exact depth that they place them at. This will save the device. If not they will basically mill out a section of the device and it will be useless. Sometimes if the weld does not go all the way through the pin you can drill the pin past the weld and it might come out.

If you have a mill doing the ADCO process is not too difficult. If you cut or mill side to side of the hider over the pin area. Again if the weld does not go all the way down the pin, sometimes you can cut deeper than the weld and the pin will come out and the hider will spin off.

Another method is to cut the hider down the center line from end to end and "peel" it off of the barrel. The cut should be made inline with the pin. Once you get the cut a chisel can separate the device. You might need to clean up the threads a bit, but if done right you should be OK with a new hider installation.

Cutting and / or peeling off a device is not so much an easy process if you are not familiar with this, or similar type of work and don't have the tools. As mentioned above ADCO can do it for a reasonable price.

iraqgunz
21 March 2011, 17:43
A friend and I recently did such a removal of a Vortex flash hider. We grinded the pin area and then cut around the pin and peeled it in sections. It took about 45 minutes.

Drilling out the pin can be tough as you need to know the depth and not drill too deep through the barrel. ADCO drills out the pins that they install as they know the exact depth that they place them at. This will save the device. If not they will basically mill out a section of the device and it will be useless. Sometimes if the weld does not go all the way through the pin you can drill the pin past the weld and it might come out.

If you have a mill doing the ADCO process is not too difficult. If you cut or mill side to side of the hider over the pin area. Again if the weld does not go all the way down the pin, sometimes you can cut deeper than the weld and the pin will come out and the hider will spin off.

Another method is to cut the hider down the center line from end to end and "peel" it off of the barrel. The cut should be made inline with the pin. Once you get the cut a chisel can separate the device. You might need to clean up the threads a bit, but if done right you should be OK with a new hider installation.

Cutting and / or peeling off a device is not so much an easy process if you are not familiar with this, or similar type of work and don't have the tools. As mentioned above ADCO can do it for a reasonable price.

AK49
21 March 2011, 18:54
thanks for all of the input it helped. Last question I have is when I attach my new compensator or flash hider, will it have to be pinned and re-welded to meet NFA requirements if it comes out to the same length as it previously was, or is there another option. Say repinning it and soldering. I'm feeling it might be time to get my tax stamp for an SBR... I want to make sure I adhere to all laws. My brother in law is a LEO and he loves busting my balls :-) Especially now I have more guns than he does. Knowing him, he'd confiscate it and keep it for himself. Again, thanks for the expert advise...
And HonoluluSwat, great videos on youtube, very informational. Keep'em coming.

iraqgunz
21 March 2011, 19:04
Unless you register a lower to build an SBR, you will have to permanently attach the flash hider via the previous method and you must ensure that it meets the length requirements.

My suggestion is to stay with a 16" or get an SBR. I personally do not think that 2" is worth the 200.00 and if you are going to go SBR then go down to 12.5 or 11.5.

thanks for all of the input it helped. Last question I have is when I attach my new compensator or flash hider, will it have to be pinned and re-welded to meet NFA requirements if it comes out to the same length as it previously was, or is there another option. Say repinning it and soldering. I'm feeling it might be time to get my tax stamp for an SBR... I want to make sure I adhere to all laws. My brother in law is a LEO and he loves busting my balls :-) Especially now I have more guns than he does. Knowing him, he'd confiscate it and keep it for himself. Again, thanks for the expert advise...
And HonoluluSwat, great videos on youtube, very informational. Keep'em coming.

5pins
21 March 2011, 19:05
Yes, your new flash hider will need to be permanently attached and have a total length of 16in or more. Make sure the one you replace it with is an extended type and not a standard one.

AK49
21 March 2011, 19:52
IG- I agree

5pins- Roger that, I'm looking at a compensator that will bring the length back to what it was originally.
Thanks fellas. Back to my cave

TPD1280
21 March 2011, 22:58
If the bbl is 16" without the flash hider, then you don't need to worry about the length for NFA.

You would only need to permanently affix if that is what your State requires.

If you State law does not require breaks/flash hiders to be permanently affixed, and the bbl is 16" on it's own then you are good to go.

As for removal, you have some good info up above. I had a guy send in his gun a few months ago, he removed his own flash hider to put on a Vortex. He bent the barrel taking off the old birdcage. It was welded and didn't know that. He just cranked away.

He learned a $400 lesson about being a junior jedi gunsmith.

iraqgunz
22 March 2011, 00:42
I'm pretty sure that he has a 14.5" with a permed hider, based on what I saw which is why it's legal. Alaska allows NFA weapons, but they follow federal guidelines as far as I know.

If the bbl is 16" without the flash hider, then you don't need to worry about the length for NFA.

You would only need to permanently affix if that is what your State requires.

If you State law does not require breaks/flash hiders to be permanently affixed, and the bbl is 16" on it's own then you are good to go.

As for removal, you have some good info up above. I had a guy send in his gun a few months ago, he removed his own flash hider to put on a Vortex. He bent the barrel taking off the old birdcage. It was welded and didn't know that. He just cranked away.

He learned a $400 lesson about being a junior jedi gunsmith.

AK49
22 March 2011, 11:15
I'm pretty sure that he has a 14.5" with a permed hider, based on what I saw which is why it's legal. Alaska allows NFA weapons, but they follow federal guidelines as far as I know.

Correct & Correct...

TPD1280
22 March 2011, 13:59
Then you are on the right path. Permanently affixed or pay the tax.

I agree with what Gunz said above, if you are going to pay the tax anyways may as well make it a true SBR.

GackMan
22 March 2011, 14:40
There is a guy out near Oceanview in Anchorage w/ a machine shop... can't remember his name. The guys at "ammo king" (way back when it used to be in Jack's garage at his house") turned me on to him for drilling/tapping a shotgun receiver.

Anyway, he has a machine shop out behind his house - his day job is a machinist too - he could probably do the removal for you and let you watch / participate. He's kind of slow - doing the work on his spare time. But does a good job.

AK49
22 March 2011, 14:51
There is a guy out near Oceanview in Anchorage w/ a machine shop... can't remember his name. The guys at "ammo king" (way back when it used to be in Jack's garage at his house") turned me on to him for drilling/tapping a shotgun receiver.

Anyway, he has a machine shop out behind his house - his day job is a machinist too - he could probably do the removal for you and let you watch / participate. He's kind of slow - doing the work on his spare time. But does a good job.

No shit. I buy ammo from them all the time. Nice. Thanks, this makes things way easier.

bobofthedesert
24 March 2011, 18:46
My suggestion is to stay with a 16" or get an SBR. I personally do not think that 2" is worth the 200.00 and if you are going to go SBR then go down to 12.5 or 11.5.

This is real good advice. 2" is really not worth $200 and the attendant grief (trust me, had to send it out 2x to get it right) Like Gunz says, if you need to have something shorter than 16" SBR it and get what you really want. I know I would not go the permanently attached FH route again.

iraqgunz
24 March 2011, 19:41
This is especially true for neophyte AR users. I can't tell you how many times I have heard people lament the fact that they permed a flash hider onto their 14.5" and now want to change something like the rail only to learn that they need to remove the flash hider to do so.

So they have incurred the original cost of the work, plus the cost and aggravation of removing the current set up.

The good thing about an SBR is that you can make it whatever you want. 10.5", 12.5", 14.5" or even back to 16". If you put a 16" upper back on then it is no longer considered an SBR and you can then transport it to non-NFA states. It is indeed truly versatile.

This is real good advice. 2" is really not worth $200 and the attendant grief (trust me, had to send it out 2x to get it right) Like Gunz says, if you need to have something shorter than 16" SBR it and get what you really want. I know I would not go the permanently attached FH route again.