Precision Reloading

[Cut]

What are some the steps that you can do to really make the difference in making handloads that much better than Match grade off the shelf ammo? I have more time than money, so taking time on the reloading bench is not a problem for me to get better results in the field.

[RifleMaster]

Cut,

It takes some time to develop an optimum load for a given rifle. If you want to build ammo for tactical shooting practice, then I would stay real close to M852 or M118 loads rather than go for the best accuracy. Usually you have to give up muzzle velosity for accuracy. If you plan to be a tactical shooter, I believe you should practice with loads that are close to those that you will be using. This will help you to learn or get a general feel for drop and wind drift with the ammo that you will eventually use.

With that said, weigh and group your cases. Case weight affects muzzle velosity in that the internal volume varies with the weight. Weigh all your powder loads to within two tenths of a grain or better. If you are shooting a bolt rifle, seat your bullets close to but not touching the chamber lands (rifling). At first, I would plan on seating the bullets .010 inch off the lands because there is some variation in bullet ogives (bullet nose shape/radii) that determine seating depths. I use a RCBS Precsion Mic to measure bullet seating depth. After considerable experience with your bullet manufacturer's variations/tolerances and your seating die, you should try to seat the your bullets within .005 inch of the lands. Please keep in mind that chamber pressures increase very fast if the bullets are touching the lands. If you haven't purchased your seater die, purchase a match or precision die. These dies seat bullets straighter! Use benchrest or match primers. I prefer cooler primers like Remington BR or Federal Match for accuracy loads. I would recommend a stick powder that has a burning rate close to IMR 4064 for 7.62mm match bullets. Always work up your load! Never start with MAXIMUM loads and never exceed the bullet manufacturer's maximum powder loads!

This is getting too long! I'll post more later on loading sub 10 fps Standard Deviation ammo.

Hold'em Hard!

Carl/RifleMaster

[RifleMaster]

Reloading Match Ammo, Cont'd
1. Case selection- LC Match cases are now hard to obtain. However, there isn't any appreiable difference between LC Match and LC "issue" brass, except for the primer crimp. A prime pocket swager can be used in a standard reloading press to remove the crimp. Inexpensive "once fired" LC "issue" "ball" military brass can be purchased from several sources. I believe Midway still has "once fired" brass with the crimp removed.
2. Weighing cases- Weighing and sorting cases can significantly reduce your group size. The internal case volume changes with case weight, and that results in changes in muzzle velosity. Most studies agree that weighing and sorting cases will reduce Match/tactical rifle groups by approximately 30 percent.
3. Neck turning- I recommend turning the necks on long-range ammo (600-yard and beyond). Consistent neck wall thickness helps insure that the neck center is concentric with the case center, and that the bullet will be centered and straight when it enters the rifling. A case neck having 0.002 inch variation is pretty good. LC Match case neck thicknesses vary from 0.013 to 0.017 inch, and the nominal is about 0.015 inch. Most precision shooters only "clean them up" within 0.001 inch. Neck thicknesses below 0.012 inch probably will not provide adequate bullet tension when resized in standard dies. Bullet tension is very important in semi-automatics!
4. Case resizing (bolt rifles)- I recommend that beginners full length resize their cases and use a tool to verify shoulder set-back (headspace). Every reloading session, I use my RCBS Precsion Mic to measure the shoulder lengths of cases fired in the rifle that I'm reloading for. Then, I adjust my die to set the shoulders back 0.003 to 0.005 inch. Remember, fired cases have cooled so they are smaller than the chamber that they were fired in! Experienced reloaders may want to only neck size their cases. However, this is not necessary if you only want to reload Match ammo.
5. Powder loads- Weigh all your powder laods for long-range to within 2 tenths of a grain or better. To very nearly duplicate M852 match ammo with LC cases, Winchester primers, and 168 grain bullets use 41.5 grains of either IMR or Hodgdon 4895 powder. Hodgdon 4895 is smaller-grained than IMR and will meter more precisely. Caution, these powders can never be used on the same meter setting due to the differences in grain size. Meter your powder and then weigh them!! To very nearly duplicate M118LR ammo with LC cases, Winchester primers, and Sierra 175 grain MatchKings use 41.0 grain of either IMR or Hodgdon 4895. These loads will produce a muzzle velosity of about 2600 fps in a 80 degree F ambient temperature.
6. Bullet seating- Full-sleeve match/precision seating dies seat bullets straighter! I recommend seating the bullets 0.010 inch off the rifling, at first. Use a tool like an RCBS Precision Mic to measure and precisely establish your bullet seating depth. Bullets can be seated straighter if you seat them in halves or thirds; seat, rotate the case, seat, rotate the case, seat to full depth.

It's time to go to our CIF (state playoffs) football game! More to follow.

Hold'em hard!

Carl/RifleMaster

[RifleMaster]

Just wanted to let everyone know that the above reloading procedures and load data is common knowledge among precision shooters. If you would like more info on a specific subject, I'll "post" at least one reference source for your review.

If I were a deployed sniper (no chance I'm over the hill), I would check my ammo for run-out and then group it by overall weight. These two simple steps would significantly increase my accuracy.

Hold'em hard!

Carl/RifleMaster

[Cut]

I guess easiest for all to understand and to talk about subjects as they come up is to start from square one at the bench. I have fire-formed brass for my .308. It is Federal Match and LC cases, all of them. What would be a good starting practice for this type of brass?

[RifleMaster]

Cut,
Several things need to be done to your fired (fire-formed) cases before they will be ready to "reload". The following case preparation is in most good reloading manuals.
1. Remove the old primers- I prefer using a Lee primer punch to knock/hammer them out. A Lee punch should also be used to knockout LC crimped primers. Most resizing dies have a pin in the end of their expander ball to push out the old primer when the case is pressed into the die and resized. These die pins are not strong enough to push out crimped primers.
2. Clean the primer pockets- There are several handtools available that will adequately clean and size primer pockets. I prefer the Whitetail Engineering tool.
3. Trim cases necks- Fired cases stretch and their necks get longer. Once fired cases may not need trimming, but it always helps to square the necks. There are several handtools and powertools available for trimming case necks. Winchester 308 (NATO 7.62 mm) cases should be trimmed to an overall length of 2.005 inch. A caliper is used to verify that the trimming tool is set to cut this overall length.
4. Remove any fire hole burr- Any burr on the inner edge of the primer fire hole should be removed. There are tools available to do this, but a 9/32 drill will work. Insert the drill in the case neck and rotate by hand.
5. Turn case necks- Case necks should be turned on long range ammo (600 yards and beyond). I would skip this step if you are just starting to reload. If not, trim them to the above dimension.
6. Clean cases- There are several types of case clears available. Initially, you can wash them in hot dish water, and then dry them in your oven. Completely dry out all the water!
7. Weigh and sort cases- Weigh and sort cases to obtain groups that are within two grains. If you do not have several hundered cases, I would skip this step.

NOW YOU'RE READY TO RESIZE YOUR CASES.

More on resizing cases later.

Hold'em hard!

Carl/RifleMaster

[RifleMaster]

Cut,
I haven't forgotten the precision reloading info!
I'm having a hard time getting on my PC because my Daughter is writing college papers.
Stay tuned!
Carl/RifleMaster

[Desertscout]

RifleMaster, all your info sounds good but I think that you forgot that your brass has to be resized BEFORE you trim it. A case that appears OK before sizing may be too long after sizing.

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[This message has been edited by Desertscout (edited 12-12-1999).]

[RifleMaster]

Scout,

You are right that most reloading instructions recommend trimming after resizing. Actually it doesn't matter if you trim before or after resizing. The case lengths will change only a few thousandths when resized after trimming. The important thing is that the cases are trimmed pependicular to their axis and to the same length. You want to obtain a uniform neck tension.

Some trimming tools have pilots larger than the inside diameter of resized necks. So, you can't trim after resizing! Several years ago I started with a hand tool like this. Then when I was shooting alot of Service Rifle (M1A), I got a Garcey power trimmer that can be used before or after resizing. I currently run LC cases (thick necks) partially into a die containing a soft seater expander ball (over sized) to obtain an inside neck diameter that closely fits my trim and neck turning pilots. I currently trim and turn necks in my lathe. After the cases work, I clean them prior to resizing them. You need to resize cases after turning their necks!

All of the above steps are covered in good reloading manuals and tool instructions. My advise is to first follow the instructions provided with your reloading tool, and experiment after you become proficient.

Hold'em hard!

Carl/RifleMaster

Oh, Scout do you shoot Black Canyon? Are you planning to shoot the AZ State Long Range in February?

[Desertscout]

No, I don't compete much anymore. I'm too tied up with my business. If you're interested, you can visit www.cia-g.com/~lzysbarc (http://www.cia-g.com/~lzysbarc) to see what we do.

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[RifleMaster]

DesertScout,

I thought you were one of the Arizona high power competitors. As you probably know, there are several very good precision shooters and gunsmiths in the Phoenix area.

Looks like you have a good service going! Good luck with your business!

I'm trying to get my manufacturing business going. I just recieved another Model 70 Firing Pin Spring Tool order from Brownells, Inc. I believe my tool is on page 89 of their new catalog. My tool utilizes the mechanical advantage of a standard reloading press to compress and control the firing pin spring during disassembly and reassembly. I'm currently designing an automated highly accurate powder dispenser.

Hold'em hard!

Carl/RifleMaster