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Old 2 May 2003, 21:15
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Thank you for that post. I have humped a ruck up and down NTC, as a lowly Colt Team leg....and not taken care of myself, feet and knees. Back when I was young I didn't think much of being injured, but now its all I think about while I train - in fact it slows my progress.

I plan on sharing that with my nasty guard fellow legs this coming drill -- although a few are tabbed and worthy of this knowledge)

Old 9 October 2003, 03:45
NewportBarGuy NewportBarGuy is offline
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Best Post Ever.

I know it's under the one year limit, but this is as good as it gets.
Ad carceres a calce revocari.
Old 9 October 2003, 03:49
NewportBarGuy NewportBarGuy is offline
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As far as toenails go, since clipping mine straight across I have not had any of the problems of the toenail ingrowth problem. Simple solution to a damn nasty and painful problem.
Ad carceres a calce revocari.
Old 9 October 2003, 04:53
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I got a question about toenails, does it matter if your smaller toes, say the 2 or three smallest, are not clipped straight across? They are a bitch to keep straight even with the proper type of clippers. I have never had problems except a few times with the bigger toes, mostly my left big toe. I know this is probably trivial, but it is something I have been wondering about.
Old 5 November 2003, 17:24
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Roguish Lawyer Roguish Lawyer is offline
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What are the best socks for troops in the desert? I'm going to send some to a buddy who asked for them . . .
Old 5 November 2003, 18:44
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Footmobile Footmobile is offline
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Roguish, I had Smartwools when I was there for the big show and they worked great, no complaints at all. Since I've been back I have been using Dahlgren's. They are less known than Smartwools, but IMHO they are a tad better. It all comes down to the details and material used in construction. Dahlgren separates the natural wool (merino and alpaca wool, the best you can find for socks) in the toe and heel boxes from the synthetic's used in the rest of the sock so that the sock can better take advantage of each materials attributes. Natural wool like Alpaca and Merino are the best at absorbing and insulating while wet. Wickspun synthetics are great at moving the moisture away from your skin. Most companies like Thorlo, Bridgedale, Fox River and Smartwool weave the natural and synthetic material together because it's cheaper and easier. This tends to make the materials properties work against each otherand not to their full potential. Dahlgren has a patend on this type of sock construction so the comp. can't copy it. Go to to find dealers in your area. I promise, your bud will thank you.

Oh and Magician, damn good post. Should be required reading for anyone going Infantry, Ranger, SF, Seals, whatever. Wish I had access to this kind of stuff sooner as I would have surely saved my feet from looking like a bucket of fuck on numerous occasions.
Suffer patiently and patiently suffer...

Last edited by Footmobile; 5 November 2003 at 18:54.
Old 12 December 2003, 16:29
okami1 okami1 is offline
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More details on boot care

Thanks to Magician (gnarled Sgt.) from the fresh Privates out there...

This was in response to my question about the curing and soaking procedure for new boots.

"I immerse the boots up to the point where no oil enters the inside of the boot. You want to avoid that for a variety of reasons, which you will understand when you actually begin the process.

I periodically (like everytime I see them or notice them) pull the boots up out of the tub or bucket, and then use a brush to liberally coat the oil on the upper portions of the boot, paying particular and careful attention to the tongue. You want a soft, pliable tongue. You do not want the oil to penetrate all the way through the tongue, though, so you have to exercise some judgement.

On the uppers, you want the boots to be fairly stiff, to protect your ankles, so your primary purpose in extending the oil up onto the upper portions of the boot is to waterproof them very well.

You also want to use a stiff-bristled steel brush, a smaller one, to rough up the leather a bit, so the oil can better penetrate. Again, use your judgement and caution.

To dry, there are a couple of ways to go. You can just place the boots on a box in the now empty tub, elevated, so you can direct a fan's air wash at them. Keep an eye on the boots, and feel free to put some rubber surgeon's gloves on and manually "work" them with your hands, bending and rubbing and massaging them. They should be very pliable to the touch. At some point, you want to just start wearing them around outside, so you can have them dry while on your feet.

The other way, of course, is to just wear them in the sun, and keep an eye on them. In a way, I like this approach best, as you can sit in the sun with your boots, and just walk around in them, and get them exactly to where you want them, and then start rucking.

Be advised that the oil may bleed through onto your socks at the outset. I never minded the oil on my socks and feet, though, and it quickly passed as the boots dried. "

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