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Old 9 February 2012, 08:20
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Surplus 30-06 M1 Garrand Ammo

Does anyone have a good place to purchase surplus ammunition for the M1 Garrand. I am not looking for US WWII stuff but the Greek or some of the newer stuff out there. Commerical ammo is way expensive to fire.
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Old 9 February 2012, 09:23
JustinL JustinL is offline
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There is some 1960s vintage non-corrosive Iranian surplus circulating around. I bought some last year from Samco Global and it has served me well.
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Old 9 February 2012, 11:45
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Thanks Justin
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Old 9 February 2012, 14:05
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Pretty complete listing here-

http://ammoseek.com/?gun=rifle&cal=1...ds=&sortby=cpr

Found a bulk deal here

http://www.ammogarand.com/3006ammo.html
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Last edited by RGR.Montcalm; 9 February 2012 at 14:35.
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Old 9 February 2012, 16:06
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Thanks SGM
I just got some rounds from PackRat. Not bad.
I have not tried the other sight. Will check it out tonight.

Last edited by Stopp700; 9 February 2012 at 16:10. Reason: forgot to say thank you....
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Old 9 February 2012, 22:44
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Justin, SGM, appreciate the info.
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Old 10 February 2012, 07:14
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Time for a road trip to Camp Perry, the Home of the Civilian Markmanship Comm.
Camp Perry Training Site, Bldg #3 (shipping)
Port Clinton, Ohio 43452

Check it out.
M1 Garrand Surplus is .49 per rd.
The only thing is you have to belong to one of the CMP Auth Clubs to get this price. Lots of other ammo and rifles avail.

Last edited by Stopp700; 10 February 2012 at 07:30. Reason: Missed prereg's
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Old 10 February 2012, 15:43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinL View Post
There is some 1960s vintage non-corrosive Iranian surplus circulating around. I bought some last year from Samco Global and it has served me well.
Just ordered a case of the Iranian surplus M2 ball, sprung for a case of the Yugo 7.62x39 on strippers while I was at it.

I know the Yugo stuff is corrosive but the price is right, my primary blaster is a Romy parts set buildup, and I am already used to doing the corrosive ammo thing since I shoot cheap Russian 5.45x39 through my S&W M4 in that caliber.
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Old 10 February 2012, 16:17
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i'm going out next week to blast the Greek M1 Garrand stuff that I just got. I will let everyone know how it fires.

Last edited by Stopp700; 10 February 2012 at 16:18. Reason: forgot to add Garrand
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Old 10 February 2012, 19:23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobofthedesert View Post
...corrosive...
Chlorate primers are corrosive, however there is a simple trick recommended by some old shooters to circumvent this issue: clean your weapon's metal parts with copious quantities of hot (read that "almost boiling") water and detergent. Chlorate residue contains salts which will not dissolve in oil-based solvents but will dissolve in water.
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Old 10 February 2012, 20:18
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For those members out there that did not attend the 18B course or have ever shot alot of corrosive ammo they know what the stuff does to a bolt/firing assy. Back when I went thru the 18B course(then it was 11B4S/light wpns) the bolts on all the Warsaw pact crap was virtualy falling apart... i guess that is why they call it corrosive :)
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Old 10 February 2012, 22:27
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Hooo Boy. Got back from the Dulles Gun Show tonight and spent too much moola (predictable)

It was the first time in a few years that I was at a gunshow without having to keep up with someone else so covering alot of ground was easy

Got a brick of Eley/Aguila 60 grain subsonic .22LR. The bullets on these are huge, and the cases look like .22 shorts. They should be pretty fun, but I hope they cycle the action. Marketed as Sniper Sub-Sonic
EDITED TO ADD: Just saw the description at Midway USA and it says "recommended for bolt action" guess I'll be cycling the action manually with these
a 500 round brick of 5.56 Federal XM193 in cartons

a 200 round Portuguese NATO battlepack of 7.62 in cartons

a really nice (my second) 81mm mortar ammo can... picture a fat 50 can, but about four cans high. Two closing levers like a minigun can. German, Portuguese, and Lithuanian 7.62 200 round battlepacks fit like a glove. The downside to these mortar cans is that when they're full, the damn things weigh in at about 120 pounds ea. Great for long-term storage.

a cool as hell Boyds thumbhole stock for the stainless Ruger 10/22. Black and dark green pepper laminate. I've got to resist the temptation to see how much money I can dump into a 10/22!

a Volquartsen 10/22 automatic bolt release - so the bolt works like that of a carbine, Garand or M-14.

a pair of brand-new parkerized M14 mags

assorted cleaning and loading supplies: 12 gauge brushes / mops, regular M16 cleaning rod (couldn't believe that I don't have one, for some damn reason), a bag of 40 ea. 10-rd 5.56 strippers & 10 ea. 10-rd stainless 7.62 stripper clips w/ a couple of speed loaders

Made for a fairly heavy Camelbak, a rifle stock stuck under an arm, and a big-ass ammo can in hand as I headed out to the car.
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Old 10 February 2012, 22:27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WS-G View Post
Chlorate primers are corrosive, however there is a simple trick recommended by some old shooters to circumvent this issue: clean your weapon's metal parts with copious quantities of hot (read that "almost boiling") water and detergent. Chlorate residue contains salts which will not dissolve in oil-based solvents but will dissolve in water.
That's the method I use for the 5.45 M4, come home from the range and put the kettle on to boil. Dump copious amounts of liquid dish detergent down the bore, gas tube, BCG, rinse out with boiling water. Lube generously with LSA. I half-stepped the first time, stored the weapon muzzle down with a muzzle cover on it, when I took the cover off a couple weeks later there was about a teaspoon of blueish-green LSA in it. Doubled the amount of water used to flush thereafter and no re-occurrence of that.

I've heard of ammonia/windex as well but have never tried it.
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""America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system, but too early to shoot the bastards."
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Old 16 February 2012, 13:19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobofthedesert View Post
That's the method I use for the 5.45 M4, come home from the range and put the kettle on to boil. Dump copious amounts of liquid dish detergent down the bore, gas tube, BCG, rinse out with boiling water. Lube generously with LSA. I half-stepped the first time, stored the weapon muzzle down with a muzzle cover on it, when I took the cover off a couple weeks later there was about a teaspoon of blueish-green LSA in it. Doubled the amount of water used to flush thereafter and no re-occurrence of that.

I've heard of ammonia/windex as well but have never tried it.
We used to use Simple Green to help clean weapons;

soak them in BreakFree before leaving the range. then spray/ pour on the Simple Green when we returned to the barracks.

Boiling hot water washed the simple green and breakFree away like a charm...
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Old 16 February 2012, 13:35
JustinL JustinL is offline
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soak them in BreakFree before leaving the range. then spray/ pour on the Simple Green when we returned to the barracks.
When did the US military stop using corrosive ammunition?
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Old 16 February 2012, 22:01
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Quote:
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When did the US military stop using corrosive ammunition?
Early 1950's IIRC.
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- J.R.R. Tolkien

""America is at that awkward stage. It's too late to work within the system, but too early to shoot the bastards."
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